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May 20th 23:23 • Post #1
ChristineR • Washington DC Post #1
May 20th 23:23
Washington DC

Hellooo!

Up until now, I've only really used electronic transformers. I'm now trying to learn all I can about core & coil/ magnetic ones and would love to be schooled on how to be able to properly use them. 

The one I'm currently looking at (photos attached) seems to have 2 low voltage connections in the right side but no grounding terminal. In this case, how would you advise I wire a 3-prong power cord to it? (And can i use a 2-prong power cord?)

Also, I believe this was inside a metal box so is it safe to mount it directly to metal or do i need to insulate this somehow?

 

 Thanks everyone!


May 21st 09:13 • Post #2
Robert • AK Post #2
May 21st 09:13

On that one, your ground can connect to the casing via one of the mounting bolts used to attach it to the metal box/sign frame.  Yes, it is best to ground them, in part because the secondary on most of them is midpoint grounded  (the reason that many transformers, even bombarders, use a midpoint ground is that it simplifies the mechanics of construction:  The innermost wrap of winding is connected to the core and it is therefore at ground potential...the outermost wrap of coil winding is therefore only one half of the total output voltage...the two secondary coils work in series to give the total nameplate rated output but by splitting it all up this way, the porcelain bushings and other insulation involved only has to be rated to one half of that total with respect to ground.  Keeping the transformer grounded avoids any stray buildup of voltage that may stress any of the insulation in its search for a return path, especially if a connection or tube is broken.

Since these do not fully self adjust like an electronic transformer does, it is important to properly load them.  Consult a standard footage chart for starters.  (since these are all going to output the same line frequency regardless of make, a generic footage chart works and you do not have to use a manufacturer specific one like you do with the electronic ones)  If you want to go beyond the footage chart, you can more precisely load them with the use of a milliamp meter and a variac to determine the proper sized one to have for your load.  If that is something you want to do, let me know and I can give you a detailed procedure for it.

One benefit of a traditional transformer is that unlike an electronic one, the output frequency is only 60Hz (or 50 if you are in a country that uses 50Hz power) and so the tendency to generate ozone is reduced, as is the tendency to interact with other transformers and cause nuissance tripping of protective circuits....the lower output frequency doesn't try to travel like the electronic ones do (because they are actually up into the RF spectrum) and so unless you have a true wiring fault, the ozone and interferance is less likely.  The disadvantage of an older type transformer is the weight and the lack of those protective circuits (unless it is a new enough example to have them added in, which some do)

If you haven't used traditional transformers before, one thing you will notice right away is that they light up tubing a little differently....you can see it visually.  Most people don't care, but I personally prefer the look of tubing lit with a traditionaly magnetic transformer and also find the faint 60Hz hum is comforting in a way.


May 22nd 13:53 • Post #3
ChristineR • Washington DC Post #3
May 22nd 13:53
Washington DC

As always, @Robert I so appreciate your detailed explanation about how things work and why!! It has really helped me wrap my mind around this topic.

I'm attaching another photo to make sure that the green/ground should go to the anchor point where the transformer will be screwed onto the metal box. Does this seem right to you? Thanks again. 


May 22nd 14:36 • Post #4
Robert • AK Post #4
May 22nd 14:36

Thanks! ...and as always...I'm glad to help.   Yes, that placement can work, or with the bolt passing through one of the holes in the feet.....in either case, use a washer and make sure the paint is scraped from that spot so it makes a good connection.  (also, FWIW-- above a certain voltage of transformer, after 1947, the UL requirement dictated a separate dedicated grounding terminal on the casing....this is why on bigger ones, you'll see that extra uninsulated bolt stud somewhere on the case......and, on those bigger ones, this lug or the lack thereof, can be used to get an approximate date of manufacture since it is not necessarily present on the pre-1947 stuff.)